Schlagwort: Eswatini

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, eSwatini (former Swaziland). Shortly after I had left Mkhaya Game Park I wanted to overtake a big, slow truck that was in front of me. Think well before doing such a maneuvre in this little African kingdom!

After a while I tried the maneuver on a hilltop ignoring the double solid line on the road indicating that there is no overtaking allowed. Here it happened. My luck was gone and the police car was just waiting at the border of the road waving me to the side. Oh oh, not good as I knew I committed a fault of driving – nothing I wanted to do in Southern Africa, as the arbitrariness of the police is already bad enough. Here I was now, unsure what was going to happen.

The officer was friendly, telling me that I was driving recklessly and he will charge me for this offense. 120 ZAR should I pay after showing my license and following him to his car. He gave me a receipt and suddenly decided that he just wanted to have 60 ZAR, I had no idea what made him change his mind but I was happy with his decision and the charge. Unsure if it was all correct and legal but it definitely seemed reasonable and the officer was kind, so nothing to complain about. It seems that eSwatini has some well mannered police officers.

Another hour of driving passed by without any problems before I reached my destination: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Happy to have arrived, I chose a nice campspot under the trees and enjoyed a braai evening. Next day started slow with a game drive on my own through the reserve. My way led me up the hills to the ridge trail where I started a short hike along the ridge up to the summit of what I assume was referred to the execution rock. The view was splendid, I could see a huge part of the park. 

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From here, I was walking back to the car to spot some zebras, wildebeests, nyalas, kudus, crocodiles and beautiful birds. My goal was now to reach Reilly‘s rock where I had to drive through a protected area, this was the roan antelope project and I spotted my first roan antelopes here in eSwatini. Beautiful animals but severely endangered, unfortunately. Here they can breed in a protected environment together with waterbucks and even some springboks. For my very first time, I spotted plenty of blessboks. A nice, little reserve but somehow it didn’t fascinate me like the other ones. Well it’s going to be my last day and night in eSwatini so I might be ready for the hustle and bustle of Johannesburg now.

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Early next morning I was on my way to Joburg, South Africa to stay at a friends house that I know from my volunteering time in Zimbabwe where I stayed at Cawston Wildlife Estate. Again, shortly after I started my journey a police officer waived his hands at me; I needed to stop. This time I got caught speeding. Oh oh, he said I did 92 km/h instead of 80 km/h. And again it was a fine of 120 ZAR that the officer was reducing to 60 ZAR before I could drive on. Lucky me, in eSwatini the fines are not too bad, the corruption level seems to be lower and the police officers are very friendly. All in all a very positive experience in this beautiful country.

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After crossing borders easily, I continued my journey back in South Africa heading for Joburg with mixed feelings. But everything went just fine – at least for me, not for everyone. After having crossed the border I saw a bad car accident that must have just happened. One SUV was turned upside down with the driver standing outside, the front passenger had no chance for surviving. The whole scene was mind-disturbing. Once I passed the car a few minutes later the ambulance crossed my way, I knew already they are coming too late this time. I still hope this man has a pain-free life in heaven.

Some hours later I arrived in the big city and I stayed in a very gorgeous area, happy to meet up with friends and enjoying some amazing lamb shacks for dinner. It’s my last night in South Africa, tomorrow my flight for Mauritius will bring me a step closer towards home. I am not yet ready for this stunning journey to come to the inevitable end but I guess I have to.

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I hope for some sunny and relaxing days in Mauritius, where I can reflect about all the fascinating travel experiences I had during the last few months and who knows what is to come next…

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May your choices reflect your hopes not your fears.

Nelson Mandela

My new lessons learned during my travels through eSwatini big game parks:

1. Be prepared for dancing – every evening you can join a traditional eSwatini dance at the restaurant lodge;
2. The ridge trail is a nice hike offering a splendid view on the reserve;
3. Roan antelopes used to be extinct in eSwatini – due to a conservation project you can now find lots of them, which originally were donated from Cologne Zoo (way to go, Germany!).

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

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Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Kruger National Park, South Africa where I am on my way towards the southern part of the park. I started my personal hunt to find some cats.

But so far all I found was mostly beautiful elephants, wildebeests, kudus, lots of impalas, giraffes, southern ground hornbills eating a snake, jackals, hyenas, ostriches and even 2 big owls sitting in a tree. No cats so far. Once I arrived at Satara Camp I chose to follow the dirt road directing towards N‘wanetsi and made a big loop. Some beautiful sceneries with zebras and waterbucks came into sight. At one point lots of cars stopped and I asked what they are looking at: lions at distance! Here they are, but very far away I could barely see them but still lions were out there. 

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I decided to drive on to see more game close by and others far away, until I arrived back on tared road. Another flock of cars and again: lions! But now very close by just next to the road, about 16 lionesses with their cubs. They were some lazy companions, just sleeping and only occasionally lifting their head or waggling their tails and ears. Nothing else happened here for quite a long time before I started the engine again.

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As I drove I spotted a little jackal just sleeping close by the lions. Such a cutie! During the next hours towards Tamboti tent Camp, I spotted some more elephants drinking at a waterhole, giraffes eating leaves, kudus and impalas enjoying the last sun rays and then again! I glimpsed two tails walking away from the tar road, down towards the river bed: 2 lionesses strolling around; probably on the hunt. No one else had spotted them, they must have just crossed the streets one minute before I came. Such a special moment shortly before I reached my camp spot.

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What a lovely day this has been! Ending with a gorgeous tent allowing a view on the Tamboti river bed where just four elephants where trompeting and greeting me with their best effort. I am happy to stay here 3 nights!

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During the night I heard plenty of hyena callings and was eager to start the next day early, which I was rewarded with a male lion sighting close by the camp, he was laying in the short grass, facing away, not willing to move. After a while I decided to drive on with the destination: lion spotting.

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I saw some elephants on my way, along with kudus, wildebeests, impalas, lilac-breasted roller, yellow hornbills, giraffes, dik-diks and a herd of buffaloes walking along with some zebras tempting to cross the roads. After 2 hours I arrived at the spot that was full of cars, lions must still be here. And they had just managed to cross the roads and were laying lazily now on the other road side. Unfortunately the grass and bushes are higher and thicker here making it hard to see them properly. I observed them for quite a long time before I started driving again. Now, with no destination in my mind.

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I just drove along and made my way towards the N‘wanetsi campsite for lunch and then towards the N‘wane river to find some giraffes, zebras and an old elephant trying to drink. From there I took the main road back to my camp and found a big herd of elephants drinking at a waterhole, watched by a hippo and a crocodile in the water. 

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Back at the main camp I booked my night drive and then I enjoyed some more elephants and buffaloes drinking at the waterhole by my campsite. A few hours later I got picked up to start shining my spotlight into the darkness. We spotted some impalas, wildebeests, hyenas, elephants, kudus, bushbabies and even a genet and 2 wild cats. Unfortunately no big cat for me. The drive was ok but not so very spectacular.

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Next morning I tried some dirt roads where leopards and lions were apparently spotted according to the mapping point. The roads along the Timbavati river were quiet for hours, not many cars but also not so many animal sightings, a few giraffes, zebras, wildebeests and of course elephants and impalas. 

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Once I hit the tar road again I could already see 7 and more cars lining up, there must be something! And yes, a pride of lionesses with their cubs. However, they were seeking the shades behind trees and bushes so it was very hard to actually see them. That’s why I decided to try my luck on the sweni river road, again here, it was very quiet, nothing much going on in the afternoon heat. So I drove back to the lion spot and I spotted a male lion this time (finally spotted the iconic king of the animals), he was chilling in the shade of a bush, not too close but I could see him! What a nice ending of this long day of driving around the western part of Kruger National Park.

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My new lessons learned during my game drives in Kruger National Park:

1. Tamboti camp has a nice little water place – tents 1 up to 6 enjoy a close by walk to it with views on the river bed;
2. Spotlights need to work – a good battery helps a lot during a night drive;
3. You can find some less busy roads in the park – but they might also lack of game!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from South Africa. It’s been some exciting days during the past time. After getting my 4×4 with a rooftop tent close by the Airport in Johannesburg, I drove straight to Ezemvelo Nature Reserve. I had certainly no intentions to stay any time longer than needed in the big city.

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By the time I arrived at the reserve it was unfortunately already dark but everything went fine and the night guard opened the gates for me. At the campsite I spotted a giraffe eating calmly some tree leaves. I build up the tent and was happy to sleep as the jet leg started to kick in. Next morning I could witness a stunning African sunrise with all the red shaded colors you can only imagine, followed by birds, impala, eland and ostriches that made their way towards the waterhole.

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It was time to move on and head towards Graskop, close by the Blyde River Canyon, where I chose to stay at Graskop Backpackers Valley View for 2 nights. I visited God‘s Window and the Three Rondavels viewpoint that offered a fabulous view over the Blyde river, especially during the late afternoon hours. I took the advantage of the city and went to see a doctor to get my spider / tick bite checked. Apparently, it’s healing nicely but can take over a year to be fully recovered. Nevertheless, I know now that it actually is very likely to be a spider bite, even though I can’t do anything anymore but wait for it to not hurt anymore.
Afterwards, I made my way towards Kruger National Park and entered at Parabowra gate at the east side. Now I am in a malaria-endangered area but I think it’s not yet the crucial time for to get this disease. As we are heading from winter to spring season it’s atcually one of the best time of the year to watch wildlife and I can’t wait what will come accross my way here!

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Close by the entrance I spotted my first elephants drinking calmly from a bassin, followed by giraffes, impala, waterbucks, kudus and birds. I was heading for Letaba Rest Camp, where I wanted to stay 1 night. The hut I was sleeping in was on the front row and very close to the letaba river bed, where I spotted a herd of elephants walking around. It’s looking like this is going to be an elephant paradise.

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The next morning started with my own game drive towards Ngotso as apparently there should be two leopards mating. However, I didn’t see them, instead I saw some giraffes, ground hornbills and kudus before I stumbled right into a herd of elephants that were very close to my car, crossing the dirt road in front of me. A young bull even tried to mock charge me in my car, showing off his power but then he dedcided he was actually not too much interested in me and went busy eating and following the rest of his friends.

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From here I drove back up direction towards Letaba and back down again to do my check in at Olifants Camp for Balule Satellite Camp, a very remote campsite without any electricity. On my way I saw a herd of buffaloes crossing the dirt road just ahead of me, giraffes enjoying the olifants river and elephants taking a mud bath.

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At the campsite I was greeted by a curious hyena that was wondering if she could find anything to eat here. The night was full of hyena callings that I could hear all too well from my little roof-top tent.

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The dust on my boots and the rhythm of my feet and my heartbeat say… AFRICA!

Vusi Mahlasela

My new lessons learned during my travels around South Africa:

1. African sunsets are just special – the Three Rondavels in Blyde Canyon are a great spot for a sundowner;
2. Hyenas are very curious creatures – they can make you feel as you were the interesting object;
3. Elephants can just appear out of the nowhere – huge but gentle in their own way!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞