Policeinafrica – WANDER OUR WORLD

22. November 201927. November 2019

Another fine day

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, eSwatini (former Swaziland). Shortly after I had left Mkhaya Game Park I wanted to overtake a big, slow truck that was in front of me. Think well before doing such a maneuvre in this little African kingdom!

After a while I tried the maneuver on a hilltop ignoring the double solid line on the road indicating that there is no overtaking allowed. Here it happened. My luck was gone and the police car was just waiting at the border of the road waving me to the side. Oh oh, not good as I knew I committed a fault of driving – nothing I wanted to do in Southern Africa, as the arbitrariness of the police is already bad enough. Here I was now, unsure what was going to happen.

The officer was friendly, telling me that I was driving recklessly and he will charge me for this offense. 120 ZAR should I pay after showing my license and following him to his car. He gave me a receipt and suddenly decided that he just wanted to have 60 ZAR, I had no idea what made him change his mind but I was happy with his decision and the charge. Unsure if it was all correct and legal but it definitely seemed reasonable and the officer was kind, so nothing to complain about. It seems that eSwatini has some well mannered police officers.

Another hour of driving passed by without any problems before I reached my destination: Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. Happy to have arrived, I chose a nice campspot under the trees and enjoyed a braai evening. Next day started slow with a game drive on my own through the reserve. My way led me up the hills to the ridge trail where I started a short hike along the ridge up to the summit of what I assume was referred to the execution rock. The view was splendid, I could see a huge part of the park.

Getting ready for another epic sundowner

Controlled fire help the reserve to get a new vegetation

From here, I was walking back to the car to spot some zebras, wildebeests, nyalas, kudus, crocodiles and beautiful birds. My goal was now to reach Reilly‘s rock where I had to drive through a protected area, this was the roan antelope project and I spotted my first roan antelopes here in eSwatini. Beautiful animals but severely endangered, unfortunately. Here they can breed in a protected environment together with waterbucks and even some springboks. For my very first time, I spotted plenty of blessboks. A nice, little reserve but somehow it didn’t fascinate me like the other ones. Well it’s going to be my last day and night in eSwatini so I might be ready for the hustle and bustle of Johannesburg now.

A young wildebeest resting in the afternoon heat

One of my first blessboks that I spot here

Beautiful roan antelopes growing healthy in this reserve

Early next morning I was on my way to Joburg, South Africa to stay at a friends house that I know from my volunteering time in Zimbabwe where I stayed at Cawston Wildlife Estate. Again, shortly after I started my journey a police officer waived his hands at me; I needed to stop. This time I got caught speeding. Oh oh, he said I did 92 km/h instead of 80 km/h. And again it was a fine of 120 ZAR that the officer was reducing to 60 ZAR before I could drive on. Lucky me, in eSwatini the fines are not too bad, the corruption level seems to be lower and the police officers are very friendly. All in all a very positive experience in this beautiful country.

Bye bye eSwatini, it was a pleasure to be with you

After crossing borders easily, I continued my journey back in South Africa heading for Joburg with mixed feelings. But everything went just fine – at least for me, not for everyone. After having crossed the border I saw a bad car accident that must have just happened. One SUV was turned upside down with the driver standing outside, the front passenger had no chance for surviving. The whole scene was mind-disturbing. Once I passed the car a few minutes later the ambulance crossed my way, I knew already they are coming too late this time. I still hope this man has a pain-free life in heaven.

Some hours later I arrived in the big city and I stayed in a very gorgeous area, happy to meet up with friends and enjoying some amazing lamb shacks for dinner. It’s my last night in South Africa, tomorrow my flight for Mauritius will bring me a step closer towards home. I am not yet ready for this stunning journey to come to the inevitable end but I guess I have to.

I hope for some sunny and relaxing days in Mauritius, where I can reflect about all the fascinating travel experiences I had during the last few months and who knows what is to come next…

Unforgettable moments that I will carry in my heart

May your choices reflect your hopes not your fears.
Nelson Mandela

My new lessons learned during my travels through eSwatini big game parks:

Be prepared for dancing – every evening you can join a traditional eSwatini dance at the restaurant lodge;
The ridge trail is a nice hike offering a splendid view on the reserve;
Roan antelopes used to be extinct in eSwatini – due to a conservation project you can now find lots of them, which originally were donated from Cologne Zoo (way to go, Germany!).

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

It was an incredible journey, see you soon – hopefully!

17. November 201922. November 2019

All about wildlife

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Mkhaya Game Reserve, eSwatini (former Swaziland). After a short morning drive to this other big game park, I was greeted by some fabulous sable antelopes close to the entrance gate.

My car needed to stay safely at the main gate while my personal game drive started. Plenty of nyalas came into sight and I spotted my first black grey Big Five one followed by some magnificent white ones. A wonderful place and a great start into this reserve! Further, I saw giraffes, zebras, impalas, wildebeests – even a white one, eland antelopes, tsessebes, hippos, crocodiles and tracks of buffaloes. At one point the car broke down, luckily the guide knew quickly that it must be the pointer apparently and within a couple of minutes the driving continued and I did not have to spent the night in the open bush.

An oxpecker checking out his landing place

For lunch, some nyalas joined my table along with some crusted guinea fowls. The camp is magical, operating without electricity only with gas lanterns and candles while the rooms are located in semi-open stone rondavels. Welcome to Stoney Camp!

Semi-open rondavels as my new home in this gorgeous camp

The bush huts are well blending into the bush

Semi-open rondavel huts where you can experience the nature very closely

After my lunch, I spent some time in a hide close to a waterhole to find a rhino bathing in the mud. During the evenning drive, I could spot plenty of wildlife and even a crocodile that had made a kill within the few last hours, a warthog was the unlucky guy that served as dinner for this night.

A male nyala on his evening stroll before the sun sets down

Next morning was reserved for some game drives and a walking safari. I finally got a shot of the shy tsessebe antelope – unbelievable, it’s very hard to get them in front of your camera lense. The rest was all about the games such as giraffes, nyalas, impalas, wildebeests and even hippos as well as crocodiles. Of course, I spotted also some beautiful grey Big Five ones while they were taking a muddy bath. It was a very relaxed day full of great wildlife sightings that I truely enjoyed before heading further west to the last of the three big game parks in eSwatini: Mlilwane.

Early morning and the wildebeests are greeting me

Two black rhinos happy to have found some cooling mud

Three giraffes overlooking the thorn bushes

Finally, a tsessebe caputed on my camera

One cannot resist the lure of Africa
Rudyard Kipling

My new lessons learned during my travels through Mkhaya Game Reserve:

You should know the basics of car engineering – otherwise you might find yourself sleeping in the bush;
Spot well on the game drives – it’s the only reserve in eSwatini where you can find some white wildebeests;
Enjoy cute company during lunch – plenty of nyalas will join you.

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

13. November 201927. November 2019

From road block to road block to grey rock

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Hlane Royal National Park, eSwatini (former Swaziland). I have left Mozambique on a rainy day to head westwards on some muddy and sandy roads to cross the border at Goba and enter one of the last kingdoms of Africa.

Leaving Ponta Malongane towards eSwatini

During this 5 hour journey I had the challenge of passing through 3 Mozambiquan road blocks that I was a bit scared of I have to admit. The first road blocking police officer was not interested in my car, the second however waived me to stop. „Oh geeee“, I thought I wouldn’t have to deal with the cops here. One of the three men greeted me with a „Boa tarde“ – „Please let him speak English“! Luckily he did, started chatting and wanting to know from where I came and where I was going to, while two of his colleagues went with their heavy machine guns towards the back of my car. I tried to keep an eye on both of them through my side mirrors at the same time while trying to follow his nice conversation that I was not too sure where it was heading towards. The officer next to my window explained me he was just doing his job, well yes I could see that… still wondering what he wanted from me.

Finally, he asked if I had some water and I wanted to hand him my half full bottle but this obviously didn’t impress him. Therefore, I asked if he wanted to have some biskuits instead and he took them gleefully! Bribing the police I guess is the correct word for it, but luckily nothing else followed and I could drive off. Just to stumble into my third control but these guys showed no interest, which was perfectly fine for me as I had enough of my shares regarding the road blocks.

Taking a break after these road blocks and trying to relax a bit

Passing by some local housing in not so good condition

The eSwatini border came closer and closer, any other block roads more and more unlikely until I happily arrived at the little border post at Goba. I got my paper work and stamps done at the Mozambiquan side – by now I knew the all too well -, drove a few meters to the eSwatini immigrations office and checked in. Here I was eSwatini! I have to say this little kingdom greeted me with open arms and left me speechless: I could pay the 50 ZAR entry fee via credit card, normally it’s only cash that is ruling at borders in Southern Africa. Plus the officers were very efficient, friendly and working incredibly fast. I really couldn’t believe I was queuing in a line that was moving that quickly! Defintely the fastest and most efficient border crossing – such a lovely start!

The border post on the eSwatini side – efficient and friendly

A few minutes after the border another military road block was already waiting for me, I guess it’s my special, lucky day! So this time I had to stop and tell the officer my destination, how long I would stay and what was planned, which seemed ok for him as I planned 5 nights in this little country what is often only used as a „drive through“. This made him speak the magical words „drive off“. That was easy!

I finally arrived at Hlane Royal National Reserve early afternoon to check in Ndlovu camp and set up my rooftop tent. It’s a lovely campsite without electricity but with beautiful candle lights. During the early evening I checked out the waterhole and was soon greeted by 4 grey Big Five ones, 3 adults and one little baby. Such a unique sighting, so rare I couldn’t believe it. This was the perfect ending for my long day.

Setting up the tent while some hungry nyalas were sharing the camp site with me

First evening at the waterhole and already plenty of visitors

Next morning started with a morning walk, I was on the hunt for big game and learnt a lot about trees, ants and elephant poop. Suddenly, there was a huge fresh dung place and here they were: 2 grey, adult females laying on the ground like solid rocks. They were peacefully resting not even noticing us walking around them. What a gorgeous sighting this morning!

Spotted! Some females laying on the ground, still resting

Zooming in, peacefully watching the grey giants

The rest of the day I was busy with my own game drive through the reserve and occupied opening gates and spotting games such as giraffes, nyalas, impalas, zebras, waterbucks and wildebeests. Once the afternoon sun started to hit the bushveld with fantastic orange colour, two big grey ones just appeared out of the bushes and walked in front of my car. I had the pleasure to watch them for quite a while until they walked off. Shortly after another 2 grey, big beauties were laying lazily on the ground enjoying each other’s company.

Waterbucks hanging around with the wildebeests

Hello there, two graceful giraffes eating and being curious

One of the two big ones during the afternoon

Another amazing day that finished with 3 grey adults laying in the golden sun by the waterhole. Just incredible that I could witness all of them on this fantastic game drive day!

Back in my camp I got blessed again with the sighting of 3 adult grey ones accompanied by a smaller one, all 4 of them enjoying a good early evening drink before they trotted back into the bushes. Hlane Park definitely showed off with some divine game sights that I truely enjoyed! This excitement will surely continue tomorrow as I will head towards Mkhaya Game Reserve, where 5 game drives / walks with rangers will wait for me.

A group of bachelor impalas on my way back to camp

Last night at the waterhole of Hlane Royal National Park

My new lessons learned during my travels through Hlane Royal National Park:

Book a game drive – only a guided tour can bring you into the area where lions roam;
Prepare yourself to open lots of gates – the park has different sections you will enter;
Look for anthills if you are lost – the hilltop always points towards the North!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

10. November 2019

On the borderline of corruption and crimes

Hello, Bonjour and Bom Dia from the golden beach in Mozambique. I decided to leave Kruger after 6 nights and an early game drive to hit the border at Komatipoort. This border crossing wasn’t without trouble and unnecessary cash payments.

The last quiet morning before the trouble would come

The South Aftican side of the border was straight forward but after receiving my gate pass the Mozambiquan side was a hustle and bustle with about 10 people smashing against my car window telling me to stop as they need to sign my pass. I wasn’t too sure about that but after a while I gave them my pass and in that moment it was clear that this wasn’t the most clever thing to do. They charged me 280 ZAR for the car insurance which actually is correct but the other 420 ZAR I payed where just a total rip off. Annoyed, I went to customs to get my visa for another 850 ZAR and my entry stamp. At least the guys had done all the declarations for my vehicle already. So I just needed the last signature on my gate pass, which I got this time from an official police man (blue uniform) and drove off. I just wanted to get out of this chaotic place. Welcome to Mozambique!

Off towards the Mozambiquan adventure

As I hit the tar road I relaxed but I was still wondering how many road blocks I would need to go through. I hoped it wouldn’t be many as I really wasn’t in the mood to mess with the corruption here. During the next 4 hours I was mostly on roads in good conditions and luckily I passed 2 road blocks without any complications. The police officers waived me through, not even interested in my car. The last 6 km was on deep sand the only road leading to Ponta Malongane and my destination, the Tartaruga Maritima. A gorgeous tented camp in the bushes right next to the sandy dunes and the unbelievable long, empty beach with its turquoise water. It was just about looking as if I had found my paradise on this travel route – a lovely place without any other tourists, but amazing landscapes! I have to say I was very relieved to arrive here, find everything easy and the staff just adorable and helpful. The place is a self-catering lodge and I was very happy I decided against all fears to take some vegetables, eggs, milk and amazingly well tasting steaks accross the border, which by the way was an easy task; no one was interested in my fridge.

Sandy roads towards Ponta Malongane – 4×4 needed

View from my home for the next days

My tented camp – a beautiful home

From the deck at the beach I even spotted a whale in the distance enjoying himself in the ocean. The beach is just incredibly long and beautiful; it allows a walk to Ponta do Ouro the next village which is about 7 km southwards. Ponta do Ouro is more touristique with little shops and restaurants and even one ATM, where I wanted to get some cash as all my cash got ripped off at the border. Unfortunately the ATM didn’t work, the next ATM is in Bela Vista, which is about an hour north and on a toll road where cash is needed. So, I tried different options but nothing worked, in the end I just let time pass at a small bar until magically the ATM started to give out cash again. This is Africa!

Somewhere between Ponta Malongane and Ponta do Ouro

Endless beaches in front of Ponta do Ouro

View within my kitchen lodge – a self-catering heaven

The little market in Ponta Malongane is really beautiful and I decided to take a stroll and look around. Everything is hand-made by the people of the community, I could even watch them sitting on a little stool carving gorgeous things out of wood. It’s a lovely place not very touristique and full of nice people trying to earn a living. Of course I couldn’t resist and came back to my tent with plenty of nice souvenirs, that barely fitted in my suitcase.

The local wood market is fabulous

My new lessons learned during my travels in Mozambique:

Don’t pay more than 280 ZAR for car insurance – at the Komatipoort border lots of unofficial official guys will come for you to make you pay more than needed;
Have enough cash with you – border crossing with visa might be expensive and there is no ATM in Ponta Malongane;
Enjoy a magnificent view of the ocean – you might spot some whales from the kitchen lodge of Tartaruga Maritima!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and adeus ∞

Epic sunrise at Ponta Malongane

7. November 20196. Januar 2020

It’s been a wild dog day

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Kruger National Park, South Africa. The next morning started very early, I wanted to really spot a leopard now.

As I drove, the sun rose and left some fabulous sun rays touching the nature around me when I suddenly spotted a pack of wild dogs on their morning hunt. So blessed to see them, I didn’t except to see these lovely dogs. They were running around and greeting each other to just go off again into the bushes. A bit further two hyenas were strolling around, probably thinking they might get their share if the dogs will be lucky to catch something. Such an amazing start into this day!

Four of the pack greeting each other happily

Trying to follow the wild dogs for a morning meal or maybe coming from a morning meal…

I made my way slowly towards the south gate, where the area changed a lot. Just when a big five beauty crossed my way, huge, grey and determined to make his path: a rhino on its morning walk. Unbelievable, what a perfect sighting! More and more animals came into sight: giraffes, zebras, kudus and even nyalas were enjoying themselves today.

Three graceful ones eating their way through the bushes

When I got closer to the lower Sabie area the density of water, animals and traffic increased. Buffaloes were laying at the flowing sabie river next to drinking elephants and hippos. Occasionally I could see some crocodiles swimming along and saddle storks trying their best with fishing. This is a very nice area full of wildlife! And then a really heavy traffic jam arose in front of me, there must be something of big attention. After a while I manoeuvred myself to the sighting: 2 lionesses laying directly next to the street, about 7 meters away from my car. They were so beautiful and of course lazy as it was early afternoon. I watched them and had elephants as well as buffaloes to my other side, 3 of the big 5 in just one spot! That’s only possible here in the southern park I assumed.

Lower Sabie Rest Camp with plenty of hippos

Buffaloes during the afternoon heat at the sabie river

One of the lioness’s resting in the shade

This could only be topped by a leopard sighting and there were plenty as I had heard. On my way I stopped to take some shots of crocs, hippos, giraffes, kudus, wildebeests and zebras, continuously heading south towards my camp at Crocodile Bridge Rest Camp. The sun was lowering itself already, turning my surroundings in fantastic reddish colors but no leopard to be seen today. However, I couldn’t believe my luck with all the great game views I did enjoy on this beautiful day.

A beautiful couple of black and white stripes

A kudu bull before the sun was setting down

My dinner attracted two little bushbabies that were tremendously cute and not shy at all, I had to get a bit louder so they would stay away from my food. So, let’s see what tomorrow will bring.

A curious little bush baby waiting to get some of my dinner

My new lessons learned during my game drives in Kruger National Park:

Prepare yourself for denser traffic – road congestions are quite common here;
Water brings more animals – lots of gorgeous game are blocking the roads;
You won’t be alone for dinner – surely some cute little bushbabies will observe you carefully!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

Just another stunning sunset in the African bush

3. November 20196. Januar 2020

The big lazy cats

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Kruger National Park, South Africa where I am on my way towards the southern part of the park. I started my personal hunt to find some cats.

But so far all I found was mostly beautiful elephants, wildebeests, kudus, lots of impalas, giraffes, southern ground hornbills eating a snake, jackals, hyenas, ostriches and even 2 big owls sitting in a tree. No cats so far. Once I arrived at Satara Camp I chose to follow the dirt road directing towards N‘wanetsi and made a big loop. Some beautiful sceneries with zebras and waterbucks came into sight. At one point lots of cars stopped and I asked what they are looking at: lions at distance! Here they are, but very far away I could barely see them but still lions were out there.

Impalas well blending in with their surroundings

A lonesome bull strolling through the bush

First time spotted: lions in the bush at far distance

I decided to drive on to see more game close by and others far away, until I arrived back on tared road. Another flock of cars and again: lions! But now very close by just next to the road, about 16 lionesses with their cubs. They were some lazy companions, just sleeping and only occasionally lifting their head or waggling their tails and ears. Nothing else happened here for quite a long time before I started the engine again.

Finally someone was moving here, just to lay down again

As I drove I spotted a little jackal just sleeping close by the lions. Such a cutie! During the next hours towards Tamboti tent Camp, I spotted some more elephants drinking at a waterhole, giraffes eating leaves, kudus and impalas enjoying the last sun rays and then again! I glimpsed two tails walking away from the tar road, down towards the river bed: 2 lionesses strolling around; probably on the hunt. No one else had spotted them, they must have just crossed the streets one minute before I came. Such a special moment shortly before I reached my camp spot.

A little jackal being all chilled close to the lions

A younger Kudu bull enjoying the afternoon light

What a lovely day this has been! Ending with a gorgeous tent allowing a view on the Tamboti river bed where just four elephants where trompeting and greeting me with their best effort. I am happy to stay here 3 nights!

View from my tent over the riverbed of the Tamboti

During the night I heard plenty of hyena callings and was eager to start the next day early, which I was rewarded with a male lion sighting close by the camp, he was laying in the short grass, facing away, not willing to move. After a while I decided to drive on with the destination: lion spotting.

I saw some elephants on my way, along with kudus, wildebeests, impalas, lilac-breasted roller, yellow hornbills, giraffes, dik-diks and a herd of buffaloes walking along with some zebras tempting to cross the roads. After 2 hours I arrived at the spot that was full of cars, lions must still be here. And they had just managed to cross the roads and were laying lazily now on the other road side. Unfortunately the grass and bushes are higher and thicker here making it hard to see them properly. I observed them for quite a long time before I started driving again. Now, with no destination in my mind.

Such a lucky moment to spot a baby calf of the buffalo herd

I just drove along and made my way towards the N‘wanetsi campsite for lunch and then towards the N‘wane river to find some giraffes, zebras and an old elephant trying to drink. From there I took the main road back to my camp and found a big herd of elephants drinking at a waterhole, watched by a hippo and a crocodile in the water.

Heading off for the thicker bushes: zebras and buffaloes

Ellies at the waterhole being watched by a yawning hippo

Back at the main camp I booked my night drive and then I enjoyed some more elephants and buffaloes drinking at the waterhole by my campsite. A few hours later I got picked up to start shining my spotlight into the darkness. We spotted some impalas, wildebeests, hyenas, elephants, kudus, bushbabies and even a genet and 2 wild cats. Unfortunately no big cat for me. The drive was ok but not so very spectacular.

One of my sightings during the night drive: ellies eating some leaves

Next morning I tried some dirt roads where leopards and lions were apparently spotted according to the mapping point. The roads along the Timbavati river were quiet for hours, not many cars but also not so many animal sightings, a few giraffes, zebras, wildebeests and of course elephants and impalas.

Giraffes overlooking the bushes and trees to find some food

Hello there – quite a rare picture with a zebra finally looking into the camera

Once I hit the tar road again I could already see 7 and more cars lining up, there must be something! And yes, a pride of lionesses with their cubs. However, they were seeking the shades behind trees and bushes so it was very hard to actually see them. That’s why I decided to try my luck on the sweni river road, again here, it was very quiet, nothing much going on in the afternoon heat. So I drove back to the lion spot and I spotted a male lion this time (finally spotted the iconic king of the animals), he was chilling in the shade of a bush, not too close but I could see him! What a nice ending of this long day of driving around the western part of Kruger National Park.

A lazy male Lion sleeping in the shadey bushes

My new lessons learned during my game drives in Kruger National Park:

Tamboti camp has a nice little water place – tents 1 up to 6 enjoy a close by walk to it with views on the river bed;
Spotlights need to work – a good battery helps a lot during a night drive;
You can find some less busy roads in the park – but they might also lack of game!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞

29. Oktober 20196. Januar 2020

Into the wilderness

Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from South Africa. It’s been some exciting days during the past time. After getting my 4×4 with a rooftop tent close by the Airport in Johannesburg, I drove straight to Ezemvelo Nature Reserve. I had certainly no intentions to stay any time longer than needed in the big city.

By the time I arrived at the reserve it was unfortunately already dark but everything went fine and the night guard opened the gates for me. At the campsite I spotted a giraffe eating calmly some tree leaves. I build up the tent and was happy to sleep as the jet leg started to kick in. Next morning I could witness a stunning African sunrise with all the red shaded colors you can only imagine, followed by birds, impala, eland and ostriches that made their way towards the waterhole.

Stunning sunrise view from the camp spot

Camping spot at the reserve where I saw giraffes, Impalas, Kudus and ostriches

It was time to move on and head towards Graskop, close by the Blyde River Canyon, where I chose to stay at Graskop Backpackers Valley View for 2 nights. I visited God‘s Window and the Three Rondavels viewpoint that offered a fabulous view over the Blyde river, especially during the late afternoon hours. I took the advantage of the city and went to see a doctor to get my spider / tick bite checked. Apparently, it’s healing nicely but can take over a year to be fully recovered. Nevertheless, I know now that it actually is very likely to be a spider bite, even though I can’t do anything anymore but wait for it to not hurt anymore.
Afterwards, I made my way towards Kruger National Park and entered at Parabowra gate at the east side. Now I am in a malaria-endangered area but I think it’s not yet the crucial time for to get this disease. As we are heading from winter to spring season it’s atcually one of the best time of the year to watch wildlife and I can’t wait what will come accross my way here!

Three rondavels at Blyde River Canyon during the afternoon hour

Close by the entrance I spotted my first elephants drinking calmly from a bassin, followed by giraffes, impala, waterbucks, kudus and birds. I was heading for Letaba Rest Camp, where I wanted to stay 1 night. The hut I was sleeping in was on the front row and very close to the letaba river bed, where I spotted a herd of elephants walking around. It’s looking like this is going to be an elephant paradise.

Elephants coming for a drink to the waterhole

The next morning started with my own game drive towards Ngotso as apparently there should be two leopards mating. However, I didn’t see them, instead I saw some giraffes, ground hornbills and kudus before I stumbled right into a herd of elephants that were very close to my car, crossing the dirt road in front of me. A young bull even tried to mock charge me in my car, showing off his power but then he dedcided he was actually not too much interested in me and went busy eating and following the rest of his friends.

From here I drove back up direction towards Letaba and back down again to do my check in at Olifants Camp for Balule Satellite Camp, a very remote campsite without any electricity. On my way I saw a herd of buffaloes crossing the dirt road just ahead of me, giraffes enjoying the olifants river and elephants taking a mud bath.

Giraffe between the leaves of trees in the beginning of spring time

Endangered Southern Ground hornbill looking for some food

Big buffalo herd before crossing the road in front of my car

Elephants enjoying the much needed rain and mud

At the campsite I was greeted by a curious hyena that was wondering if she could find anything to eat here. The night was full of hyena callings that I could hear all too well from my little roof-top tent.

The dust on my boots and the rhythm of my feet and my heartbeat say… AFRICA!
Vusi Mahlasela

My new lessons learned during my travels around South Africa:

African sunsets are just special – the Three Rondavels in Blyde Canyon are a great spot for a sundowner;
Hyenas are very curious creatures – they can make you feel as you were the interesting object;
Elephants can just appear out of the nowhere – huge but gentle in their own way!

Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞