Hello, Bonjour and Sawubona from Hlane Royal National Park, eSwatini (former Swaziland). I have left Mozambique on a rainy day to head westwards on some muddy and sandy roads to cross the border at Goba and enter one of the last kingdoms of Africa.
Leaving Ponta Malongane towards eSwatini
Some other road users along my journey
During this 5 hour journey I had the challenge of passing through 3 Mozambiquan road blocks that I was a bit scared of I have to admit. The first road blocking police officer was not interested in my car, the second however waived me to stop. „Oh geeee“, I thought I wouldn’t have to deal with the cops here. One of the three men greeted me with a „Boa tarde“ – „Please let him speak English“! Luckily he did, started chatting and wanting to know from where I came and where I was going to, while two of his colleagues went with their heavy machine guns towards the back of my car. I tried to keep an eye on both of them through my side mirrors at the same time while trying to follow his nice conversation that I was not too sure where it was heading towards. The officer next to my window explained me he was just doing his job, well yes I could see that… still wondering what he wanted from me.
Finally, he asked if I had some water and I wanted to hand him my half full bottle but this obviously didn’t impress him. Therefore, I asked if he wanted to have some biskuits instead and he took them gleefully! Bribing the police I guess is the correct word for it, but luckily nothing else followed and I could drive off. Just to stumble into my third control but these guys showed no interest, which was perfectly fine for me as I had enough of my shares regarding the road blocks.
Taking a break after these road blocks and trying to relax a bit
Passing by some local housing in not so good condition
The eSwatini border came closer and closer, any other block roads more and more unlikely until I happily arrived at the little border post at Goba. I got my paper work and stamps done at the Mozambiquan side – by now I knew the all too well -, drove a few meters to the eSwatini immigrations office and checked in. Here I was eSwatini! I have to say this little kingdom greeted me with open arms and left me speechless: I could pay the 50 ZAR entry fee via credit card, normally it’s only cash that is ruling at borders in Southern Africa. Plus the officers were very efficient, friendly and working incredibly fast. I really couldn’t believe I was queuing in a line that was moving that quickly! Defintely the fastest and most efficient border crossing – such a lovely start!
The border post on the eSwatini side – efficient and friendly
A few minutes after the border another military road block was already waiting for me, I guess it’s my special, lucky day! So this time I had to stop and tell the officer my destination, how long I would stay and what was planned, which seemed ok for him as I planned 5 nights in this little country what is often only used as a „drive through“. This made him speak the magical words „drive off“. That was easy!
First impressions of eSwatini
I finally arrived at Hlane Royal National Reserve early afternoon to check in Ndlovu camp and set up my rooftop tent. It’s a lovely campsite without electricity but with beautiful candle lights. During the early evening I checked out the waterhole and was soon greeted by 4 grey Big Five ones, 3 adults and one little baby. Such a unique sighting, so rare I couldn’t believe it. This was the perfect ending for my long day.
Entering the Royal National Park
Setting up the tent while some hungry nyalas were sharing the camp site with me
First evening at the waterhole and already plenty of visitors
Next morning started with a morning walk, I was on the hunt for big game and learnt a lot about trees, ants and elephant poop. Suddenly, there was a huge fresh dung place and here they were: 2 grey, adult females laying on the ground like solid rocks. They were peacefully resting not even noticing us walking around them. What a gorgeous sighting this morning!
Early morning drive to find some game
Spotted! Some females laying on the ground, still resting
Zooming in, peacefully watching the grey giants
The rest of the day I was busy with my own game drive through the reserve and occupied opening gates and spotting games such as giraffes, nyalas, impalas, zebras, waterbucks and wildebeests. Once the afternoon sun started to hit the bushveld with fantastic orange colour, two big grey ones just appeared out of the bushes and walked in front of my car. I had the pleasure to watch them for quite a while until they walked off. Shortly after another 2 grey, big beauties were laying lazily on the ground enjoying each other’s company.
Waterbucks hanging around with the wildebeests
Hello there, two graceful giraffes eating and being curious
One of the two big ones during the afternoon
Another amazing day that finished with 3 grey adults laying in the golden sun by the waterhole. Just incredible that I could witness all of them on this fantastic game drive day!
Taking a stroll on the road
Checking out the toilet
Enjoying the last sun rays of the day
Back in my camp I got blessed again with the sighting of 3 adult grey ones accompanied by a smaller one, all 4 of them enjoying a good early evening drink before they trotted back into the bushes. Hlane Park definitely showed off with some divine game sights that I truely enjoyed! This excitement will surely continue tomorrow as I will head towards Mkhaya Game Reserve, where 5 game drives / walks with rangers will wait for me.
A group of bachelor impalas on my way back to camp
Last night at the waterhole of Hlane Royal National Park
Enjoying a nice braai evening
My new lessons learned during my travels through Hlane Royal National Park:
- Book a game drive – only a guided tour can bring you into the area where lions roam;
- Prepare yourself to open lots of gates – the park has different sections you will enter;
- Look for anthills if you are lost – the hilltop always points towards the North!
Cheers to wandering the world and the wonders of our lives – bye bye, salut and sala kahle ∞